Adding Cap Sleeves

This technique can be used on knit or woven garments, but it is best to match the sleeve fabric to the garment fabric. To add sleeves to a sleeveless top, first measure the armscye. Nicki discusses the required calculations to draw your own cap sleeve pattern. As the cap sleeve only covers the upper portion of the armscye, you don’t have to try to mimic the curve of a commercial sleeve pattern. Simply draw a gentle curve for the top of the armscye.

For more info on altering sleeve patterns, check out Sewing Sleeves for a Better Fit.

Nicki demonstrates how to draw your own cap sleeve pattern to ensure each side of the curve is symmetrical. Then you will learn how to fold the sleeve fabric and cut out the new cap sleeve pattern in a double layer, so the lower edge is on the bias fold.

Nicki discusses options for finishing the sleeve cap raw edges, then demonstrates how to insert the cap sleeve into the sleeveless top armscye. As ½” seam allowances were added to the pattern, lap the sleeve ½” under the armscye, with right sides facing up. Nicki discusses options for setting in the new sleeve, including sewing by hand for an invisible seam, topstitching over a previous stitching line, or adding a new stitching line.

Using this alteration technique, you can quickly and easily add new cap sleeves to any sleeveless top or dress.

For more sleeve alteration techniques, check out these videos:
Flutter Sleeve Pattern Hack
Shoulder Seam Alteration