Little Rebel Quilted Jacket - SPONSORED

The little rubble sewing and quilting machine by the Grace Company is not only great for piecing together your patchwork projects and quilting your quilting projects, but also sewing other types of projects as well, whether it's home deck or accessories or garments such as the jacket. I'm going to be making in this video. It's not just any jacket, it is a jacket that is made from a quilt. So we are upcycling a quilt that may have come to the end of its life and giving it new life by turning it into a wearable piece of art. So download the free pattern that comes with this video. The jacket pattern comes in small, medium and large and it's a fairly simple shape. So we have boxy lines, we just have a back panel, a front and a sleeve and we're going to be binding the edges of the sleeve and the opening of the jacket. So cut out your pieces and we are going to start by with right sides together, take one front panel onto the back. We're going to start with this shoulder seam and we have half inch seam allowances included in the pattern So we're going to stitch our shoulder seam and the seam allowance markings on the throat plate are really nicely marked, very visible. So we're going to back stitch. I'm gonna use our half inch seam allowance. And if you have a quilt that had a lot of piecing, sometimes you go, you have to go through a lot of seam allowances at once and you might have to help it along just a little bit if you're going over the bulk of lots of sea lounges, some back stitching at the beginning and end. Now we need to finish our seam allowances somehow. So you can do that. However, it's most comfortable for you. I'm going to finish these using the Hong Kong seam finish. So I cut a bias strip that is one and a quarter inches wide and this is just a really durable seam finish um for the life of the garment. And it also happens to make the inside of the garment look really beautiful and finished. So on the right side of the seam allowance, we're going to stitch this strip through just the bio strip and that one layer of seam allowance. And I like to finish the seam allowances independently. It's going to help mitigate the bulk because we are, we're dealing with quilt layers here. So we might have uh a bit of bulk with our batting layers. So we want to mitigate that wherever possible. And I'm using a quarter inch seam allowance here to attach my by a strip to the seam allowance. So we're going to trim away the excess of this strip right at the edge of the fabric. And then we're going to wrap that bias strip around those raw edges. And because it's a biased strip, it's not going to fray on any of the edges. So we're just going to wrap this around. We don't need to fold the edge under. We're just going to wrap it around and I'm going to stitch just on that bio strip and that's going to catch that on the wrong side. So we're wrapping that nice and tightly around that raw edge. So I'm going to stitch just on the binding. So there our seam allowance is finished and on this wrong side, we're going to trim away this excess to just about an eighth of an inch from the seam line. So our raw edges are protected and that finish just happens to look so beautiful. So you're going to do the same thing to that seam allowance and then stitch this side, seam finish those seam allowances just the same way and do the same thing when attaching the other front panel. So you get something that looks like this. So you have all of those seam allowances finished beautifully. So you have your two front panels on and we're going to set this aside for a quick second and bring in our sleeve piece So you'll have your sleeve that was cut on the fold. So you wanna stitch your underarm seam and finish both of those seam allowances independently just the same way. And I like to, to finish off, bind the lower edge of this sleeve at this point before we attach it to the body of the jacket. It's just a little bit easier to work with. So grab your um a little chunk of whatever binding you wanna use. And I cut this at two inches wide. So two inches wide, folded with the raw edges in and then folded in half. And I have my beginning cut at a diagonal and that raw edge folded in and with the sleeves still wrong side out. It's just, it's a little bit easier because we have kind of a small uh circumference we're working with. So it's a little easier to get this under the foot if we leave this wrong side out. So we're going to place the binding to the right side of the jacket. So we're going to stitch our raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of our sleeve. So we're going to take this under the foot. So we're stitching on the inside of the circle starting at that folded diagonal edge and we're stitching right in that first fold line. So it'll be about a half inch a stitch right in that fold line of the binding you created or your, your premade binding if you chose to purchase. So we're going a little bit at a time and then readjusting to pull what was behind the foot in front of the foot. They can almost be more of a hassle to try to pin in such a small area. So you can just stop and kind of readjust and hold the raw edges together for a couple of inches before you readjust again. And as you go over these seam allowances try to make sure they stay open because that is how we're going to keep the bulk down, right. So we're going to lap the binding end over the beginning by a couple of inches, trim away any excess binding. And then we're going to fold this binding over the raw edge. And then on the wrong side, we want to make sure that this fold covers our previous stitching line. And again, we're going to stitch um from the right side from the inside of the circle. So we're gonna pull that over our previous stitching line, make sure our join lays flat and then we're going to slide this under the foot again and stitch just on the binding. So kind of like we did for our Hong Kong seam finish only with this um with our, the end of our sleeve, we want that fold, we want that binding folded on the wrong side. So we're catching the fold on the wrong side so that it is nice and sturdy and finished. The end of the sleeve is it gets a lot of wear. So we want that to be finished really nicely. So I'm going to stitch on the binding all the way around. So there are sleeve lower edge is finished. We caught the fold on the wrong side and then on the right side, we have that binding stitched. So we are going to pull this right side out. So there's our sleeve lower edge. So you want to do the same thing to the other sleeve and then we can insert our sleeve into our jacket army. So we want to fold the sleeve in half and mark the sleeve half, uh mark the sleeve at the upper edge of this cap, mark that half point, I'm just going to use a pin and that mark is going to get matched with this shoulder seam. So we're going to slide the sleeve inside the arm side, match that center point of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. And we want our seam allowances open right there and then we're matching the sleeve uh underarm seam with the side seam. And then you shouldn't have much if any of easing to do this uh arms eye. Uh the sleeve should fit into the arm's eye nicely. So matching your raw edges all the way around. And again, we're going to be sewing on the inside of this circle just makes it a little bit easier So we're going to slide this under and use our half inch seam allowance. And as we approach the, the underarm and um, the sleeve underarm and the side seam, that's probably the bulkiest part of the jacket because we have two seam allowances stacked. So you might find as your, your presser foot is going up onto this, make sure your seam allowances are open as your, your presser foot is trying to go up onto that bulk. You might need a leveler to put under the back of the presser foot to level it out to help it go over that bulk. So I actually use just some denim folded a couple of times. So it's, it's bulky back here. So we're going to slide this under the back of the foot and it's going to help raise up the level of the presser foot, but make sure my seam allowances stay nice and flat. You might need to readjust that leveler behind the foot as you go a couple of stitches and then once you're up onto the bulk of it, it's pretty easy to go across. We're going to readjust as we sew around this circle. Um All right, we back stitched at the end as we stitched over the spot where we began. Now here to finish this seam allowance. Here's one place where I'm going to finish the seam allowances together rather than independently because the seam allowances are, we want them to get pushed toward the sleeve anyway. So they're both going to be pushing the same direction so we might as well finish them together. But before we do, I'm going to trim out a little bit of this bulk at the underarm seam since that is where it is the thickest. So we're just going to trim off a little bit of that. And then we're going to finish these seam allowances using the Hong Kong seam finish again just like we did for the rest of the garment. And we want to start, we want to sew on the bodice side of the seam allowance. I'm going to, we're going to start up here. So sewing attaching that to the bodice side of the seam allowance and finish this just like we did before the binding end is going to lap over the beginning and because it's not going to fray, we don't need to fold it under at the beginning at all. So again, a quarter inch seam allowance to finish these seam allowances. And as you stitch over the uh that bulky part at the underarm scene, you might need to use your leveler again, but you might not because just the act of uh having sewn it down once already kind of tamps down on that loftiness, so you might not need the leveler again. So we're going to trim off that excess, going to wrap this binding around the seam allowances and stitch on the binding just like we did before. All right. So our arms I see is stitched and the, the seam allowances are finished. So we have our jacket shell that is almost completed already. So you'll do the same thing to the other sleeve. And then the last step is going to be to bind this opening edge. And we have nice curves here to go around and then we're going to piece and quilt a patch pocket for the front because what is a jacket without a pocket? So just like how we bound the sleeve lower edge, you want to get your binding. And I like to start at the back neck and start at the back on the lower edge just somewhere inconspicuous. So I have my binding prepped just the same way as I had on my sleeve. So we're going to start up here and because this is a bias strip, it's going to uh ease around our curves really nicely. So we're just going to kind of ease that around that curve. And again, we're going to stitch in that first fold line, making sure your seam allowances of this shoulder seam remain open as you go over them and then easing around that curve. And we're going to do the same thing to attach this binding all the way around this jacket opening. So we're going to finish off this binding just the same way as we did that lower that sleeve, lower edge just by folding these edges over and we're going to stitch from the right side to catch that fold on the, on the wrong side. And it's going to, our bias binding is going to curve around these corners or around these gentle curves. And we're going to stitch on the binding all the way around. All right, our binding is stitched around the edge all the way around, all the way around all of our corners. So our jacket is complete. But of course, we are going to add our pocket and you can, there's a little bit of overlap built into the pattern. So you can do buttons snaps or you can just sort of leave it as kind of an open front. So for our pocket, I thought it was charming to sort of mimic the, the look of one of the blacks on the quilt that I chose. So I just measured the, the squares and the rectangles that were used to piece this together. So I have one and 78 inch square and one and 7/8 inch by three and a quarter and by four and 5/8 inch um to cut for my squares and rectangles. And we're going to piece those together using our quarter inch seam allowances to sort of reconstruct that block for our pocket. So here are my pieces and I've done most of that block already, but I'll show you how we piece together the rest of it. So we're going to, it's reconstruct this so to piece these together, I'm going to take my pieces right sides together, quarter inch seam allowance. And we're going to do a little chain piecing here just to make it a little bit quicker. So we're going to go quarter inch seam allowances. And as we approach the end of this seam, we're going to put the next piece right up next to it and that pulls it right along and then we just trim those apart. And then for the other pieces, we're going to do the same thing, flip these over right sides together and piece those. All right. So there are our rose and then we're going to piece this piece on. And first we want to, we want to press these seam allowances before we cross any. So I, because I have a lighter fabric, I'm going to press my seam allowances toward my darker fabric. And then we're going to center that square over the sea and then to attach these two rows together, I want to fold this in half to get my, to find the center of that green rectangle. So we're going to center that over this square and we wanna keep our seam allowances going in the direction we press them in and then to attach these rows together, we're going to do the same thing. Find the center of my rectangle and center it against this square. So I'm just kind of using my thumbnail to get a center mark here. All right. Now, my block is finished. So we're going to give it one final press to get these last seam allowances going in the right direction. All right. Now, I want to square this up a little bit before we go to make our quilt sandwich and quilt our pocket. So I'm just going to align my ruler and just trim off these edges here. So we get a little bit of a better idea of the final size of our pocket. All right. So here's our pocket block. So we're going to quilt our, our block. So we want to get a, we have our backing and some batting. So we're going to make ourselves a little quilt sandwich and I, I left my, my backing and my batting larger on all sides. So I have something to hold on to as I'm driving this under the, the needle because once we get this all set up for quilting, we're, we're going to free motion this. So we're going to do sort of a free form design, which is so fun. You can do squiggles, you can do waves, you can do anything you want. So before I go to quilt this, we need to swap the machine over to quilting mode. So I'm going to remove the foot, pop the bobbin out for a second so that I can attach my magnetic quilting plate and then we get our hopping foot attached. So it's really easy to swap this over to quilting mode. I can pop my bottom back in. So now that we're all set up for quilting, we have our quilting plate on, we have our hopping foot on. And when this magnetic quilting plate snaps on, it tells the machine we're in quilting mode. So we've covered up the feed dog. So we're set for free motion quilting. And the, the little cue button up here is illuminated, meaning that the stitch regulator is active. So the stitch regulator is this little piece down here and that senses the motion of the fabric. So that's another reason why we wanted to have a lot of extra fabric around um our block so that the stitch regulator is always covered. Um It needs to be covered by the fabric so it can sense it sense how fast it's moving so that it knows how fast uh for the needle to go up and down so that the stitches remain an even length as you're moving that fabric around. So I have my block um pinned down at the corners. So we're going to get this under the foot and I have my hopping foot set to the right height and then starting kind of off at the edge here. I'm gonna pull my thread up so that I can keep track of it that off to the side. And then as we stitch because that magnetic quilting plate, uh covered up our feed dogs. We can just sort of drive the fabric around. So I'm just kind of doing some wave and you can hear that stitch regulator working. Uh The faster I move the fabric, the faster the needle goes to make sure my stitches remain even. So I'm just kind of going free form and then I'm just going to kind of drive off the edge once my block is all filled with my quilting lines. So there we have our quilted block. So we have our quilting lines on the back. That's going to be the inside of the pocket. So there we go. So I'm going to trim this up again to square it up to the edges of my fabric and do any further squaring up. That is necessary. All right. So there's our block for our pocket now for a pocket I kind of like to, to round off the lower edges. I just like that look for a pocket. So I'm going to fold this in half and just round off these lower corners to make my pocket nice and rounded. There we go. So there is my pocket now to finish off these edges, we're going to bind the edges just the same way as we've been binding everything else. And I like to start at the lower edge. So we're going to stitch this around, around our curves and miter in our corners just like you would miter any corners for a quilt or a potholder or anything like that. And actually, before we go back to sewing, we need to swap back out of quilting mode. So I'm going to pop my magnetic, um, quilting plate back off and take off my hopping foot and get my regular sewing foot back on. So it's really easy to switch between the different modes to switch back and forth between, um, quilting and sewing super fast and simple. All right, here we go. Now, we can get our binding sewn on. Now. Just like when you're mitering anything as we approach this corner, we're going to stop our steam allowance, distance away, remove that from the machine and to bring that up at a 45. So we get a 45 here and the binding is in line with the edge of the pocket and then fold that back down and then start sewing again right at that fold right at the edge. All right. So we've got our binding stitched around uh around all edges of our pocket. So just like we've been binding everything, we're going to fold that around to the wrong side and we've got our lovely miters up here. So, on the wrong side, we're going to tuck the wrong side into a miter on those corners and we will fold our binding over to the wrong side so that it covers the previous stitching line and we are going to stitch on the binding from the right side. OK. And as you go around these, these mitered corners are gonna stop with the needle down in the fabric and pivot around to stitch the next edge. So we're in a back stitch and then our pocket is complete. So we can place this pocket on our jacket front, kind of wherever you feel is right. So I kind of like it down here. So we're going to top stitch this pocket on right at the edge of the binding. So I wanna make sure I'm straight and then throw in a couple pins to make sure this remains even. And then we will take it to the under the foot and stitch. So I wanna make sure I'm not pinning through the back layer, which I did. There we go. All right. So as we take this to the machine, the, the large area under the arm here comes in real handy when you're stitching a large quilt or when you have a jacket like this, so I can get everything underneath. And I love the, the light under this arm as well. So I'm going to start at the upper edge here and we want to make sure we back stitch. So I'm just top stitching along the edge of that binding. All right, our, our pocket is all attached. So there we have our quilted pocket that flows with the, the blocks of the quilts that we used to upcycle into our wearable jacket. So it's gorgeous. It is beautifully finished, it's strong and finished on the inside and it's going to be warm because it's a quilt and that's what it's designed for. And thanks to the little rubble sewing and quilting machine by the Grace Company, we were able to sew all of our construction seams, plus piecing and quilting this uh our pocket piece. So all in one, jumping back and forth between sewing and quilting to create this wearable piece of art. So I hope you enjoy it. And thanks for watching.