Magic Hem

Completing a rolled hem on the bias can be difficult and often tedious, especially if you are making a skirt with lots of volume, such as a circle skirt. Mary Beth demonstrates the “magic hem”, which is a fast and easy shortcut for finishing hems that doesn’t require the use of a rolled hem foot.

Learn how to Make a Circle Skirt Pattern.

The Magic Hem creates a narrow hem that looks similar to a rolled hem from the right side, but is completed without the use of a specialty foot, and only requires folding the fabric to the wrong side as you sew. Hemming bias edges can be tricky, but with this method, it is easy to control. Mary Beth discusses the different uses for this technique, including many costume and cosplay applications, and variations on finishing the edge with trim.

First, finish the edge of the hem using a serger, or another finishing method Mary Beth suggests. Then, topstitch with the right side facing up, ⅜” to ½” from the edge. Next, fold the edge toward the wrong side so the first line of stitching gets turned just to the wrong side. Mary Beth demonstrates how to stitch with the wrong side facing up near the first line of stitching to complete the hem.

The magic hem method creates a beautiful, even hem without tedious prep work or specialty tools. Press the finished hem for a crisp look on the project.

For more on hemming hacks and shortcuts, check out these videos:
Interlocking Hem
Hems for Special Occasions
How to Use a Rolled Hem Foot